How Should a Suit Actually Fit?

July 20, 2022

When it comes to a classic gentleman’s suit, finding the right fit is essential. You simply can’t settle for something that’s too big or too small.

A well-tailored suit will sit perfectly on your physique — as if it were a bespoke suit made just for you.  

To help you on your quest of finding that flawless fit, we’ve curated a step-by-step guide to how each aspect of a suit should fit your frame. 

Let’s begin, shall we?

How should a suit jacket fit?

When checking the fit of your suit jacket or blazer, there are several elements to consider:


Your height determines the point at which the suit jacket should fall on your body. If you’re below 5’9”, the end of your jacket should be around the mid-crotch area. Any taller, then it should fall around the mid to lower crotch section. 

>> Does it fit like a bespoke suit? Place your arms down by your side, the knuckles should be aligned with the bottom of your jacket. 


In regards to sleeve length, your shirt sleeve should be peeking through, without revealing too much. 

>> Does it fit like a bespoke suit? Aim for the sleeves of your jacket to end just at the point where the base of your thumb meets your wrist. 


Next, the shoulders. The shoulder seams of your jacket should sit right at the end of your shoulders, where they begin to curve off. 

>> Does it fit like a bespoke suit? You don’t want to see any wrinkles or creases on the shoulders, it should appear to be perfectly flat. 


To check the fit around the body, focus on the buttons. Where a suit jacket has two buttons, ensure that the top button doesn’t fall below your navel. If it has three buttons, then the same applies to the middle button. 

>> Does it fit like a bespoke suit? On a two-button suit, fasten the top button (never the bottom). If it’s got three buttons, then fasten the middle (sometimes you can fasten the top, but never the bottom). 

With your button fastened, the suit jacket should lightly hug your body without feeling too tight and creating an ‘X’ shape. 


The collar of your jacket should sit nicely on your shirt collar, which should gently rest on the back of your neck.

>> Does it fit like a bespoke suit? If you spot a gap, then it’s too big. If there’s any bunching under the collar, then it’s too small. 


The armholes should be high, without cutting into your armpit. On the other hand, you don’t want them to be too spacious, with inches between your armpit and the bottom of the armhole. 

>> Does it fit like a bespoke suit? When you move your arms with a normal motion, they should be able to move reasonably independently of the body of the jacket. 

How should trousers fit?

Now for an overview of how your suit trousers should fit. 


The waist of your trousers should sit around the upper hip.

>> Does it fit like a bespoke suit? Your trousers should sit around your waist comfortably without a belt to hold them up. 


The seat area around your derrière should be lightly hugging, without being too tight or saggy. 

>> Does it fit like a bespoke suit? The material around the buttocks should not have excess material, nor should it feel like it may split.


You’ll want some space between your suit leg and thighs, but as with every other element of a suit, you don’t want too much or too little. 

>> Does it fit like a bespoke suit? You should be able to pinch around one inch of trouser fabric on both sides of each thigh. 


The hems of your trousers should have a slight break, meaning there’s a crease an inch or so up. 

>> Does it fit like a bespoke suit? Check that your hems don’t hang straight at the bottom.

Your flawless-fitting suit awaits

Our tweed suits are tailored to your measurements, to ensure that it fits as comfortably as a second skin. 

Once you’ve selected your tweed, we’ll customise it to achieve that perfect fit.